Crafts: Jamie Christina Mission Maxi

For my muslin I cut a size 10, and it fit like a glove. The problem: I felt overexposed. The dress hugged every little curve, and that's not something I'm comfortable wearing in public.

But I liked the skirt portion of the dress.

To make a Mission Maxi skirt I added two inches to the pattern's sweep (making a 7-inch-wider finished bottom opening) and a yoga-style waistband at the pattern's narrowest part. I'm very pleased with the end result and will wear this skirt often.

I used a medium-weight bamboo-blend knit, and I love its thickness and drape. I want another maxi skirt in a solid color, maybe green or dark teal. Wouldn't that be pretty with a white tee and sandals?

Crafts: Snow Bunny Cowl

I've made another Sewaholic Renfrew Top, this time with 3/4-length sleeves and a novelty print.

Like mini skirts, I may be too old to wear bunnies. But I think I can get away with this. Either way, I feel younger and happy wearing this top.

Admittedly, purple is not my favorite color, but I do love green. The lichen green background and this top are why I bought the fabric. And I've had this puffer vest stowed in my closet for years - it needed an excuse to be worn.

My only complaint is the sleeve length. The sleeves are too short to be 3/4-length and too long for elbow-length. My elbows hit at the sleeve cuffs, so I'm a tad uncomfortable when bending my arms. Next time I'll shorten the sleeves two inches, because elbow-length sleeves really are my favorite.

Crafts: Liesl + Co. Everyday Skirt #2

I liked my first skirt so much I made another, this time in a brown, textured dot fabric.

I made no pattern changes. The only difference between the two skirts is the fabric. This one is a lightweight cotton shirting, and the first is a medium-weight linen blend.

The color of this skirt isn't terribly exciting, but I can dress it up with some fun tights.

Crafts: Renfrew and Wristlet

Sewaholic's Renfrew Top pattern has been on my wish list for a while, and I'm so glad I've added it to my pattern library. It's a staple pattern that can be modified innumerable ways.

My measurements fall into three different sizes (8 bust - 6 waist - 2 hip), but a straight 8 works for me. I've read reviews that the pattern sizing is generous, but, for me, it's quite accurate. The 6 is too snug in my problem areas (upper bust and back), and the 8 is just right. (The fabric makes it look ill-fitting, but I swear it's not). The sleeves may be a tad long, but I like the extra length.

I did notice an error in the pattern directions: When constructing the cowl users are instructed to sew the un-notched edge with wrong sides together. This will result in an exposed seam! The diagrams show right sides together, so heed the diagrams and disregard the verbiage for this part of the step.

This heather mint fabric was also part of my Girl Charlee order. The fabric is nicer than the Striped Briar's, but it's slightly sheer, clings to my bra like Velcro, and not nearly as soft as I'd like. Where can I source high quality, super soft knits?

The Zip & Go Wristlet by Sweet Pea Totes is the first pattern I bought and made when teaching myself to sew. I've made twelve of these so far, but this is the first one I get to keep. I just love mint and orange together!

Crafts: Striped Briar Tee

I made another Megan Nielsen Briar! This time in a wheat and coral stripe with 3/4-sleeves.

I love the fabric colors, sleeve length and pattern, but the fabric was a pain to sew. It's lightweight and clingy (like Saran Wrap), and doesn't drape well or feel as nice as my Briar Rose Tee. My twin needle/sewing machine also had trouble with the low-quality fabric.

I purchased the fabric from Girl Charlee, because I've heard rave reviews about their knits. My order included three other knit fabrics, and, thankfully, they seem thicker and easier to work with. We'll see!

Crafts: Mathilde

Here's Tilly and the Buttons' Mathilde. I love her details: tucks, button-down back, blousy sleeves, and bateau neckline.

The downloadable pattern includes only basic instructions, but Tilly offers step-by-step construction details and photos on her blog. She also provides thorough instructions on how to shorten the sleeves, add gathers, remove the tucks, and make a dress-length version. You get a lot with your pattern purchase!

I used a lovely, autumnal cotton lawn and brown pearl snaps (idea from Make Something). I sewed a size 3 with size 1 bust darts, and the fit is just right.

I did make a few very minor modifications: sleeve cuffs have no interfacing and are sewn with 3/8-inch seams; the neckline has bias binding, no facings; and I added 1.5 inches to the blouse length.

I will definitely be making more! I have some Joel Dewberry rayon set aside for a short-sleeved, tuck-less version.

Crafts: Liesl + Co. Everyday Skirt

This skirt is aptly named, because I'd love to wear one every day. It's such a simple design, but well-constructed and fits to flatter.

All of Liesl's patterns teach professional dressmaking techniques. For the Explorer Vest it's bellows pockets, and for the Everyday Skirt it's how to sew flared hemlines and construct a waistband that's as beautiful on the inside as the outside - techniques I'll use from now on.

My skirt is a linen blend in dark aqua. I cut a size small with an extra large length. I made no pattern modifications, and I probably won't make any changes to future skirts either.

I like this color combination. Do you?

I also want to try Liesl's Weekend Getaway Blouse + Dress in rayon challis. The pattern's facing/placket details really interest me.

Crafts: Wiksten

So far I've made three Wiksten Tovas and three Wiksten Tanks. I've made size adjustments for each one and have finally found my fit.

My measurements register as S for both patterns, but I find a S/M combination works best for my broad shoulders.

For the Tova: S front with M armholes and M back, sleeve and cuff. I angle the back pattern piece 1/2-inch off the center fold at the neckline (as Made by Rae does here).

For the tank: S front with M armholes and M back, same angle, and I raise the neckline by 5/8-inch.

Now that I've sorted out the Wiksten sizing, I see myself making several more tanks and Tovas, some with sleeve, placket, and hemline modifications. But the original Tova may always be my favorite.

I love this flannel one!

Crafts: Kelly Skirt

I made another Megan Nielsen pattern, the Kelly Skirt, and I love it!

It has a distinctly vintage vibe, but I don't mind. The high-waist, A-line shape is incredibly flattering, and the button-front and pleats add interest.

I used Robert Kaufman's Yarn-Dyed Essex Linen in Denim, variegated thread, and old U.S. Navy dress blues uniform buttons. It's a versatile piece, and I know it'll get a lot of wear.

I cut a size S (and added an inch to the XL hemline), and it fits well. The waistband is a little loose, but not terribly. I just need to tuck in my shirt.

I'd love one in brown corduroy and black flannel.

Crafts: Perfect Pajama Pants

These are Amy Butler's In Stitches Lounge Pants and Made by Rae's Parsley Pants.

Both are easy to sew, as I imagine most pajama/basic pants are. What makes the lounge pants unique is the ultra-wide leg, and the Parsley has only one pattern piece.

I made no pattern adjustments for the Parsley, and Cole loves the fit. He's rocking those pajama pants...

I did modify the lounge pants, as I find the pattern sizing too generous (I could pinch 3 inches of excess fabric on each hip using my recommended size, M). There's 3/4" difference between S and M and M and L, so I made an XS and the fit is just right. I also added 1/2" elastic to the drawstring casing. One other adjustment I'd like to make is lowering the waistline by 2 inches, and then this will be my perfect pajama pant pattern.

Cole's pajamas are made from quilting cotton, and mine are flannel (from Anna Maria Horner's Loulouthi line).

Crafts: Briar Rose Tee

I have a queue of things to post, but here's a top I made today. I do realize strawberries are out of season, but it still feels like summer here.

I used Megan Nielsen's Briar pattern and Heather Ross's Briar Rose cotton jersey. That's two briars!

Per my usual, the front is smaller than the back. The back, sleeves, and armholes are a S, but the front side seams are an XS. I also shortened the back, middle hemline by two inches and redrafted the curve.

I love the fit. It's not too tight or too loose, and the hemline adds visual interest. I also love the strawberry print, and how easy the fabric and pattern are to sew.

I think I'll make 10 more Briar tees in stripes and solids, some with 3/4-length sleeves. I just ordered Sewaholic's Renfrew pattern, and I'm anxious to make the cowl version when Fall finally arrives.

Crafts: Date Night Dress and Simple Slip

I bought this pattern with my ten-year wedding anniversary dinner in mind. The flutter sleeves and fabric seemed like the perfect pairing.

But this is no love story. I had issues with the pattern.

It calls for quarter-inch seams throughout, and my machine wants to eat fashion fabric with seams less than 3/8 inch. So I had to sew the dress with larger seam allowances. The pattern has enough ease that this didn't affect the fit across my back or bust, but it did alter the shoulders, neckline, and made closing the sleeves/side seams a trial. As a result, the shoulders and neckline don't lie right, and the side seams didn't come together easily or neatly.

The Simple Slip was easy enough to sew, but the voile I used didn't fit close enough to the body to give a complimentary side view. It looked a bit sloppy, really. So I've opted for a form-hugging tank/camisole, and am wearing a half-slip I already owned. The Simple Slip will be re-made into something else, later on.

The dress is pretty shapeless, so a belt and/or shirring is required. Here I'm wearing only a belt, but I want to add a row of shirring to make the gathers and blousing more uniform. It's a bit of work getting the gathers and blousing right, and then you have to adjust them each time you stand up or make exaggerated movements (notice the uneven blousing in the pictures).

I made the belt from a lovely indigo linen-chambray I had, using a belt my mom made as the pattern. A ready-made belt would require new shoes, and an $18 pattern + $62.75 of fabric = more than enough already spent.

Short lengths and dramatic hi-lo hems don't suit me, so I added an inch to the front XL hemline and kept the L hemline for the back. There's a three-inch difference between the front and center back, but you really can't tell.

I won't make the dress again, but I may try it as a top. I'll just add a quarter-inch seam allowance to the pattern and wear a matching tank/camisole.

Crafts: Anna Tunic

I bought this pattern by Amy Butler a couple of years ago, and I finally made it last week. I love the details: full lining, unique and flattering collar, and buttoned back closure.

The pattern directions and diagrams are well-drawn, and the finishing techniques employed for each step ensure a professional end product.

The only issue I had with the pattern is the sizing of the armholes. I found them far too small! I had to go back and lower them a full inch so I could move my arms. My measurements register as a small, but I needed a size large armhole.

This beautiful fabric is also by Amy Butler, part of her Alchemy voile collection. The lining is a matching voile solid. As an added bonus, the fabric pairs perfectly with my necklace (a birthday gift from my son) and green flats.

Crafts: Washi Dress and Tunic

I've made a dress and tunic using Made by Rae's Washi Dress pattern. I sewed the dress last year, but I made the tunic just this week.

While I am not in love with either piece, I am very pleased with how well the bodice fits me. I cut a size small but used extra-small bust darts, and the fit is perfection. The bodice template alone is worth the pattern purchase price.

To clarify, I do like the dress. Besides the "U"-shaped cutout (which reveals more cleavage than I like and snags my necklace), everything is fine. The dress is comfortable, well-constructed, and the shirring and pockets are brilliant. I don't know if the dress is exactly figure flattering, but I think the length of the bell makes it look more like a dress and less like maternity-wear.

The tunic, on the other hand, does look and feel like maternity-wear. The empire waist and shorter hemline are best suited for round bellies, not flat ones. Without child, I find this look rather unbecoming.

I may never make another Washi, but I can see myself using its bodice template with different patterns. Rae taught me some new techniques along the way, too, which I'll use as well: in-seam pockets, shirring, and bust dart finishing.